Here is diagram of controls for a typical SLR; see how many math you Camera.
Most adjustable cameras are quite similar. The camera in these pictures, a Nikon FE, is fairly typical. You should be able to use these pictures to find the controls on your camera however, we will also use a typical “Point and Shoot” camera in a few of the illustrations. Their controls are quite similar to digital camera controls.
If you are ONLY concerned with digital cameras then visit digital camera, I strongly recommend you follow my lead if you really want to learn photography, by focusing on your photography skills.
Make sure there is film in the camera. There is only ONE way to be sure, wind the rewind lever (see pic, turn in the direction of the white curved arrow) about 6-8 times. If it tightens up you have film inside. If it winds easily, no film.
Before you put film in be sure to set the film speed on the dial. On this camera it is the dial below the rewind knob. If you look closely you will see that the speed (800) is aligned with the red mark.
If you have a totally automatic “point and shoot camera you should have a window on the back. A slit that allows you to see what film you have inside. Check the photo at the left. If there is no film the slit will simply look black.
If the light doesn’t light up, or the camera won’t work, try cleaning the battery before buying a new one. A pencil eraser does a real good job. These batteries tend to oxidize and you need to clean that coating off so it makes a good connection. (The battery is usually found on the bottom of the camera, underneath a round, slotted screw). On Point and Shoot, and digital, cameras the battery compartment is on the right hand side.
If the camera still doesn’t work, get new batteries. If it STILL is kaput, take it to a good camera shop.
To load the camera you need to open the back. A lot of cameras require you simply lift the rewind knob to open the back. Some cameras have a latch on the left (see red dot in the pic, the latch is just below it) that you must press to lift the rewind knob. Other models have a sliding latch on the left hand side of the body.
Once open, place the film cartridge in the chamber, as shown, and push the rewind knob down to lock the cartridge in place. Then pull the film to the right and insert into the slot. Close the back and advance the film three frames.
If you want to use a flash you mount it above the prism on the “hot shoe” mount. (See the mount at left edge of picture) You must set the shutter speed at the correct speed or below. The red number “125″ on the shutter speed dial (center of pic) indicates the fastest
shutter speed you can use with a flash. You may use any shutter speed at, or below, the speed indicated in red. More on flash below.
Notice that the wind lever is “open”. Doing this turns the internal light meter on. Pushing the lever inward shuts off the battery, saving battery power. You can read the light meter by looking inside the viewfinder. You will usually see pointers, that need to be lined up, OR you’ll see blinking LED lights. Green indicates proper exposure and Red means you must change the aperture or shutter speed. We usually set the shutter speed first….
The SelfTimer is located (in the foto) to the left of the lens. It has a white stripe on the lever. Crank it downward, push the shutter button and dash in front of the camera to make a self-portrait. It usually takes 10 seconds for the timer to wind down and trigger the shutter.
The Depth of Field lever is located above and to the right of the SelfTimer. It is either a round button or a lever like this. Depressing it will close the aperture (to whereever you have set it) so you can determine the approximate depth of field (sharpness).
We try to avoid aiming the flash directly at the subject. Instead, aiming the flash upwards – bouncing the light off the ceiling – will spread the light and give a softer, more even lit picture without harsh shadows.
For more info on Flash Photogaphy visit fast photography.
Point and Shoot, and digital, cameras have flashes that cannot be bounced. I usually put a piece of Mystic tape over the flash head to soften the light. You can also put a piece of very thin napkin or toilet paper over the flash head. It really makes a difference.
We hardly ever keep our camera in the leather case that usually comes with it. These cases are too cumbersome and they discourage camera use. If you put a Haze filter on the lens you’ll protect it just as well.
And we are reluctant to squirt lens cleaning fluid on the lens elements. Better to simply breath moisture SOFTLY onto the glass and gently wipe it with a lint-free napkin.
Please write down the Hints (at right) and try to follow them for a few rolls of film. These hints will improve your photography quite a bit.
Friday, February 12, 2010
Subscribe to:
Post Comments (Atom)
No comments:
Post a Comment